Category Archives: travel

Return To Reality

Michael and his sisters and cousin are back from vacation at Grandma’s.

I drove 173 miles to pick them up, 3+ hours of driving along the mighty Columbia river through alternately verdant and barren countryside, to reach a small town whose main claim to fame is being home to one of the few remaining coal-fired power plants in the state of Oregon. It’s also a convenient midway point between our house and Grandma’s house. It has a big park, where Michael can burn off some pent-up energy and stretch his little legs before getting strapped in for the second half of his journey home.

It had been a grand week.

Michael, two sisters and a cousin were all in eastern Oregon, enjoying the relaxed pace and small-town atmosphere of the Wallowa Lake area, along with the diversions afforded by its rugged mountain features and glacier-forged landscape. One of Michael’s favorite activities was to chase crickets, of which there are plenty. His other favorite activities apparently centered around keeping his sisters in a state of high annoyance, at least by their account. With the low horizon and clear skies, his days began at the very crack of dawn, as the crimson sunrise flooded the loft room where he and his sisters bunked.

His grandmother made sure to keep him well occupied, providing trips to the lake and trips to town, adventures in the parks and up the mountains and of course plenty of busy-work to keep his little hands engaged and out of mischief. His sisters and cousins pitched in, taking shifts to ensure that grandma didn’t get overwhelmed. The daily reports his mom and I got back were quite colorful; text messages from the girls, phone conversations from Michael and his grandmother.

to wit: “Why is it that michael always wakes up at 5 AM and then chooses the LOUDEST toy in the room to play with? X(” (this from sister L)

And from his grandmother, a report about Michael at the lake: “He told me he had to go to the bathroom really bad, but said he couldn’t make it back up the hill to the potty so I told him he’d just have to use the lake. So he comes out of the water, stands up on the shore and starts pulling down his shorts…”

Meanwhile, at home, Michael’s mom and I spent a week in a quiet house. The only noise came from the cat, who was VERY CONCERNED that all of her people were disappearing, and wanted to BE SURE WE UNDERSTOOD HER CONCERN. Repeatedly, every ten minutes or so.

We did a whole lot of nothing, which was wonderful. We didn’t paint anyone’s room, we didn’t re-work the garden or re-decorate the house, and we didn’t travel.

Well… not much. We did go to the beach for one day, spending the night at a bed-and-breakfast inn along the coast. This place was magical on all counts, and we’ll be back one day. For one thing, they had a guests-only wine social the afternoon we checked in. They handed us a couple of glasses of wine and pointed out a couple of forest trails behind the inn, encouraging us to explore, which we did. Never before had either of us hiked through the forest holding a glass of wine.

The dinner we had that night was truly amazing. Neither of us had ever had an “amuse bouche” before either, the sort of pre-appetizer course they served. To say dinner was good would be to say the ocean is deep.

But time marched onward, and she and I both had to get back to our normal occupations.

Thus on Sunday, while she was at work, I drove alone to the middle of Oregon to pick up children.

After transferring bags and blankets and assorted gear from Grandma’s car to ours, and a few hugs goodbye, we were on our way back to Portland.

And even though I’d had a week to recuperate, any vestige of parental patience I’d gained was quite deftly erased after fifteen minutes in the car.

I can’t wait for school to start.

Notes from the Road

To get the most out of our three-day weekend, my wife and I took the kids to Joseph, Oregon to visit with my wife’s folks and play in the snow. That extra day made it the perfect opportunity to make the six and a half hour trek across the state.

The visit was good, the food was excellent, the sledding was fine, there were tree forts to be made, stars to be seen and various “Mr Fix-it” jobs to do, including assembly of a telescope and photographing of antiques to be put up on Ebay.

But it was the trip back that held a lesson I needed to learn (if you’re really a glutton for punishment, you can read about a similar trip we took last August).

Before I begin regaling you with the travelogue, I must describe one episode that occurred during our stay. On the second night, Michael insisted upon sleeping in the big room with his sisters. When I announced this fact to them, I was met with the expected heavy sighs and groans. I tried to be encouraging. “Come on, give him a chance. He knows that he has to stay still and not make a sound, or he’s out of there. Just do what you normally do, and if he misbehaves bring him to our room.” They relented, begrudgingly.

As I put him to bed, I reiterated the rules. He promised to be good.

After I heard Michael’s sisters go to bed, I laid awake for an hour, waiting for the inevitable knock on the door. It never came.

Michael was as good as his word, sleeping soundly all night and not disturbing them in the least.

I was surprised and delighted, pondering that maybe Michael is maturing enough to be better in control of himself.

The next day, after packing and hugs goodbye, we were on our way.

Mile 1: We’re just pulling out of sight of Grandma & Grandpa K’s house, fresh for our journey home. The kids are goofing around and having a good time.

Mile 39: Things are going smoothly. Looking forward to lunch in La Grande. Kids are entertained and enthralled with the scenery, pointing out cows and deer they see.

Mile 63: Before topping off the gas tank, we grab lunch, make an obligatory trip through Wall Mart and get a little coffee to make the trip home a smidge sweeter. The baristas of the Island City, Oregon Starbucks are awestruck by my ability to place an order, and they let me know it. Now, all I did was fire off a list of drinks for the five of us: a grande latte, decaf grande mocha, tall coffee frappuccino, tall mocha frappuccino and a kid’s hot chocolate. When I pulled around to the window, they stood applauding. “That was the most awesome job of ordering!” While I was rendered slightly embarrassed by their admiration, I thought to myself how much I appreciate the small-town attitude. They were friendly and welcoming, got my order right, were considerate enough to cut short the straw for Michael’s drink, and were grateful for our business. I can’t say the same thing for our hometown stores.

Mile 112: Michael won’t go to sleep. He keeps fighting it tooth and nail. He’s tired and should be napping, but is refusing to allow himself to drop off. He insists upon moaning and complaining about it instead. At the last rest stop his mom put a pull-up on him just in case. Did they put caffeine in his hot chocolate?

Mile 146: Have driven for twenty miles with Michael throwing a blood-curdling scream fest. Why? Because I failed to let him throw away his own paper towel after washing his hands in the restroom at the truck stop we just left. Didn’t want him touching anything there; it was gross. Wife stuffs an Oreo into my mouth, knowing it will soothe my nerves from the audible onslaught.

Mile 150: Finally pull over to calm him down. Promise that I would buy him his own roll of paper towels and five wastebaskets to throw them in to, if he’ll just stop screaming. I wonder to myself whether if I’d just let him throw his own paper away, would he have been satisfied? Would he have been calm enough to drift off into a nap? Next time, I’ll keep this in mind.

Mile 202: Michael found a new reason to throw a tantrum, and does so con brio. I don’t even recall why, other than the fact that he was tired.

Mile 250: Wife notices my knuckles turning white, hears the crunch of the steering wheel under my grip, begins feverishly unwrapping and shoving Andes mints into my mouth, hoping to allay my rising stress level at the sound of Michael’s continual complaint. My wife is the best.

Mile 255: Strongly wishing it was legal and safe to drink while driving, because the cookies and chocolate are no longer providing the medicinal value they were before.

Mile 271: Hurricane Michael has ebbed.

Mile 282: Traffic jam. Lane to right is moving quickly, lane to left is moving quickly. My lane is stalled. Wife suggests I change lanes. In true stubborn fashion, I make excuses as to why I cannot.

Mile 285: Finally decide to change to right lane. Breeze past jam, realize then that the jam was in the lane headed toward Seattle; I could have bypassed it half an hour ago.

Mile 322: “Momma!” Michael cries. “I can’t see!” “What’s the matter, sweetie?” his mom asks. “My eyes keep closing!” He’s so tired he doesn’t even know what’s going on. Frustrated and feeling betrayed by his body for failing to remain awake, he threw another tantrum with as much energy as he had left in his body. I think at this point he was running on pure gall.

Finally home: To settle in, and while Daddy unloaded the car of every last bag, boot, sled, crushed water bottle, wrapper, sack and toy, Michael sits with his mom and watches “The Last Mimzy” once more. This was fine – as long as he was good, out of the way and quiet, I was okay with it. It ended just at 8:00, his bedtime. He wanted to watch Wall*E next. “No, Michael. Mommy and Daddy are tired and we want to go to bed too,” his mom said.

As should be expected by this point, Michael took this news by throwing a fit. He wailed loudly throughout tooth-brushing time, which was actually okay with me; it kept his mouth wide open and made my job much easier. Couldn’t hear after that, though.

All done, he sobbed about how he wanted mom to sleep with him. “No,” I said. “You never let her go without having a meltdown.” “I’ll be good!” he said.

Then I remembered what I’d learned earlier: He demonstrated that he is capable of delivering on his end of the bargain. I’d missed an opportunity for him to be successful on the trip, maybe I can give him one now.

“Okay, Michael. Your mom can come up and be with you for ten minutes, then it’s story time and a kiss night-night, and mommy has to go. Do you understand?”

“Yes,” he said.

And once again, he was as good as his word, and he didn’t throw a fit when it was time for mommy to go.

So because he was good Monday night, he earned upstairs time with mommy on Tuesday night, and behaved himself then as well.

I’m taking this as a good sign. He’s maturing, and learning how to control his own behavior. The clouds are parting.

Maybe by next year he’ll sit still and eat his dinner. With a fork. I can dream.

A Last Look Back

As with all good things, our family vacation had to come to an end. Our three days were up, and it was time to say farewell to Anaheim and head back up to Portland. We didn’t get to do everything we wanted; there was plenty more to see and do that we never got around to seeing and doing, for one reason or another.

But we got to experience some new things and enjoy some old memories together and had, overall, a terrific time.

Here are a few of the moments from our trip that stand out for me:

  • Dining outdoors in the cool of the evening, when the lights begin to flicker on and the park settles into its nighttime cadence. Sitting in the French Market café or in Rancho del Zocalo was truly an immersive experience as the food really is superb and the ambiance is redolent with true Disney charm and character.
  • The smell of Pirates of the Caribbean. It’s that musty, dank scent of years of water against wood; a cool and redolent aroma, yet not overwhelming or unpleasant. Launching from the dock and passing through the first scene, you drift slowly through the swamp, serenaded by the sounds of crickets and frogs. You’re mesmerized by the sight of the wispy clouds flowing past the moon and fireflies flitting about the dense copse of marsh plants, as you make your inevitable approach to the first dark tunnel and what lies beyond.
  • Michael screaming with excitement watching the fireworks, shouting with glee upon seeing the happy faces, cubes, starbursts and Mickey outlines in the colorful explosions. As much as he loves fireworks, this was probably the best display he’d ever seen. My daughters were amused to hear Paul Frees’ voice utter the echoed word “Magnification!” during the part of the fireworks show that explored past Tomorrowland attractions, since I’ve forced them to watch old videos of “Adventure Through Inner Space” repeatedly.
  • Sister L going through the Haunted Mansion for the first time, and loving it.
  • Grandma going on and on about how wonderful the Finding Nemo ride was. I had to really work to convince her that the submarines really don’t submerge.
  • Riding along with my brother driving on Autopia, on which he’d driven 39 years ago with our older brother, but not nearly as successfully. Knowing that after all this time he finally got his absolution made me feel like we’d gotten some closure.
  • Michael having a meltdown whenever we’d leave the park, whether it was for our mid-day break or for closing at night. He didn’t want to go. I couldn’t blame him for that. If I could have gotten away with having a whining tantrum, I probably would have done the same.
  • Three full days at the park, but not nearly enough time. We will be back, though, renewed and ready to soak it all in again.

    Here are some places I haunt online when I can’t be there in person. Hope you enjoy.

    Miceage – a series of blogs and a forum devoted to Disney parks and events.

    The Extinct Attractions Club — DVDs and Audio CDs detailing Disneyland attractions that have closed over the years.

    Yesterland — a virtual visit to Disneyland of the past.

    Magical Hotel — a closer look at the first hotel to grace the Disneyland resort, from beginning to present. Buy the book!

    Laughing Place — A great resource for anyone planning a trip to the park.

    MousePlanet – The ultimate Disneyland Information Guide. Read before you go.

    The “E” Ticket Magazine — Enjoy it while it lasts. This is (was) a very well-produced, in-depth magazine covering Disneyland’s history.

    Visions Fantastic — a virtual visit to Disneyland every day, with information and forums for discussing our favorite place.

    Shades of the Past

    I admit I spend an awful lot of time being wistful over things past. Probably more than most people, and definitely more than I should given what I have to be grateful for and happy about right now.

    Yoda spoke wise words about how Luke should keep his mind focused on where he is and what he is doing. Be mindful of the present.

    But still, I look upon things that once were and I mourn their passing.

    And at Disneyland, there is a lot that’s passed that deserves some mourning. Or at least some remembrance.

    I took some time during the middle of our second day to take some photos of areas in Frontierland that were once covered by the area known as “Nature’s Wonderland.”

    I hadn’t known that this place had ever existed until I took the kids down to Disneyland in 2001, and done some research on the place. I found out that there once was a large part of Frontierland that was devoted to the desert, and there was a slow-moving train that went through it. The Mine Train through Nature’s Wonderland. And it was removed in 1976, to make way for Big Thunder Mountain Railroad.

    Because at the time, really thrilling rollercoaster rides were becoming the big thing. So since Disney wanted to stay competitive, they shut down the mine train and put in Big Thunder.

    I never got to go on the mine train, and I regret that greatly. It was such a cool thing! You traveled out of Rainbow Ridge and through a tunnel to cross a small river, before going out and around Cascade Peak and the waterfalls there. Coming back through the tunnel you crossed over a trestle spanning Bear Creek, where all the bears would hang out. The jumping fish are still visible in this little body of water, shown in the first picture below. After that you climbed a hill and approached the natural arch bridge, in the second picture. The train continued on through a forest of Saguaro Cacti, around some bubbling mud pots of rainbow colors, past some geysers and then through a group of precariously balancing rocks. After that came the best part: the trip through Rainbow Caverns, where colorful waterfalls poured down from all sides, and rock formations glowed in black light.

    Several of the old elements of the original Nature’s Wonderland are still around today.

    So I went on a little photo hunt to find out what’s currently there in various places where particular landmarks were then. I have maps of the park during various time frames, and by overlaying them, it’s fairly easy to tell where these things were, and thus where to get the right shot.

    Fortunately, the things I chose to capture lay right on spots on the walkway between Frontierland and Fantasyland; a walkway that did not exist before 1976.

    Below are some before and after shots of that area. The before shots were taken around 1957, and the after shots of course were taken by me. You can click on them to get the full sized image.

    Bear Creek is still there along the walkway, though the train trestle is long gone, as are the bears.

    The natural arch bridge is gone, and right now the area that it used to occupy is part of the walkway; the planting area in the picture is where the arch was.

    The buttes and arch in the desert in the last picture are still pretty much where they were, which is now the entrance to Big Thunder Ranch.

    So when you’re in Disneyland passing by Big Thunder, and maybe stopping in to check out Big Thunder Ranch to pet the animals and such, try to imagine what it was like when the area surrounding you was desert floor, with cacti, bobcats, wild pigs and coyotes all around.

    And be glad for what attractions you can take in there now, for fifty years from now, they may very well be gone.

    And it’s Mobile

    Imagine our surprise, coming back to the hotel after our first wearying day, to discover the Oscar Mayer Wienermobile in the parking lot, not twenty feet from where our parking space was!

    Way too cool.

    Naturally the kids, young and old, crowded around the marvelous motorized sausage to get a closer look, and perchance to even touch it’s glossy exterior. Wow!

    Michael’s Mommy snapped the picture you see above, and even in the gloom of darkness, it shines as a beacon to all Americans.

    Unfortunately, Michael was asleep in my arms at the time, and could not revel with us in the wonder that was the Wienermobile.

    So the very next day, first thing, I got him dressed and brought him downstairs to see it. Heck with breakfast!

    We made our way to the back door and slipped out into the parking lot.

    “Look, Michael! It’s the Oscar Mayer Wienermobile! Isn’t that incredible? It’s right here!”

    “It looks like a big pee-pee.”

    (moment of stunned silence)

    “Alrighty then. Let’s go get some pancakes.”

    Note to self: if you ever have to deal with potty training a boy again, choose a more technical term.

    Disneyland Or Bust

    If I haven’t mentioned it before, I’ll mention it now. I am a certified, dyed-in-the-wool Disneyland Geek.

    I cannot get enough of that place. There is no such thing as having too much of Disneyland in my estimation, and luckily Michael’s Mommy and our kids feel the same way. And because it’s usually two or three years between visits, each one ends up being an event.

    The other thing that made this an event was that it would be the first time my brother had been back to Disneyland since our trip in August of 1969. The picture up there is one taken of our whole group when we were there (I’m the little six-year-old in front, looking down at a little drink umbrella I’m holding). I was pretty excited to show him the place we visited so long ago, and how many things are still pretty much as they always were.

    So, Saturday morning, we loaded up our rented minivan and pulled out of grandma A’s driveway to pick up Uncle W on our way to Anaheim.

    We’d gotten a couple of new games for Michael’s Leapster, and it was a good thing. This pretty much kept him occupied the entire trip. If I hadn’t been in the van myself, I never would have believed he would have made it for an eight-hour trip as well as he did. Oh, there were a few tantrums and scream fests, but those were due to being tired and hungry, and were easily handled. For the most part, it was a smooth, albeit dry and very boring trip. My wife and I only got to 85 bottles of beer before our enthusiasm for singing the song petered out.

    I had made reservations at the Rainforest Café there in Downtown Disney for the night of our arrival, and the timing couldn’t have been better. After checking into our hotel suites we were able to drive over and get in right away. Okay… truth be told, we wandered around the very loud courtyards pushing through throngs of people milling about nearly as aimlessly as we were, with me shouting out various points of interest to my brother and mom: “THIS IS WHERE THE HOTEL USED TO EXTEND TO, AND THE MONORAIL STOPS HERE…” and such. I could so be a tour guide.

    I screamed about how Disneyland was right ahead, and that this all used to basically be parking lot and nothingness.

    Then it got to be close to our reservation time, so we headed over to the restaurant entrance. Checking in, I was given a little ticket that said we’d be called shortly. So I herded our group into the gift shop, a cool little place that’s dripping with faux vines and other jungle décor, thumping with dance music and aglow with various LED-encrusted knick-knacks. After a short eternity they called our name, and then we stood in line to actually go into the restaurant.

    Mind you, I kept my smile, because I know just how cool this place is to eat. Despite the incredibly long and complicated wait to get in, even if you’ve made reservations a week in advance.

    Finally, we were escorted to our table. I was a little bummed that we were downstairs this time, instead of upstairs, where it’s way more interesting. But still… we got to see the rainforest animals come to life every so often, see the monsoons come and go, and taste exotic food like chicken alfredo, broiled salmon and pizza. I was so impressed that I signed up for their safari club. Heck, we come here every time we visit Disneyland, and it’s a lifetime membership, and the key words in this offer that struck me were “half the wait time.” I’m all over that.

    For the next hour or so, we dined in the splendor of the rainforest. The kids had a great time. My wife and I had some amazing drinkies served in the aforementioned LED-bedecked glassware. Michael was incredibly miffed that he didn’t get a blinking glass, and he wanted a sip of his mom’s drink in the worst way. Needless to say, he was disappointed to not get a taste, but he understood that it would be bad to get the waiter in big trouble.

    I kept looking at my watch during dinner, knowing that at 9:25 the fireworks show would begin, and if we were able to make it outside at the right time, we’d catch them from where we stood.

    Which we did.

    Michael was absolutely blown away by the magnificence of the display, even though the sound and music were not piped out over to where we were. All he knew is that big, bright explosions were happening in the sky, with Mickey heads and happy faces and a zillion colors.

    He already liked Disneyland, and we hadn’t even really gotten there yet.

    “Tomorrow, we’re going to go there,” I assured him. He grinned so big I thought his face would crack.

    I don’t remember now whether he fell asleep right away that night, but I know that in the morning he was rarin’ to go.

    So was I. Finally, after three long years waiting, we were back for three full days of fun.

    Again, I can be so optimistic.

    California Adventure

    I had this great idea: a big family trip through California, to see all the sights.

    Or at least a few.

    I wanted to see the big trees in Calaveras county, Yosemite, Mercer caverns, the State Fair, friends, family and of course Disneyland.

    It’d be great: we’d fly down to Sacramento, visit with grandma A and uncle W for a day or two, then start our great voyage across the state to spend some time at each wonderful location, our children brimming over with delight, their faces beaming and their hearts thumping with excitement as we went from one beautiful destination to the next.

    This got whittled down to just seeing the big trees, the caverns, the fair and Disneyland.

    And soon reality settled in, as it is wont to do, and the trip became a visit to the State Fair and Disneyland. With Fairtale Town thrown in for good measure.

    But Disneyland was a must. Absolutely. Can’t do without that. Because after all, it’s Disneyland. If you understand, then it needs no further explanation. If you don’t, then I won’t be able to explain. It’s that simple.

    So.

    We did fly down, early Thursday morning. The trip went great: Michael sat with his sister B across the aisle from his mom and me, and the other two girls sat together in the aisle ahead. It was a 90 minute trip, and it was over before we knew it.

    Soon we were in sunny blistering scorching searing Sacramento, where we would set up camp for the first few days. This would be our launching pad for driving (gulp) down to Anaheim.

    One of my first tasks was to change the operational mode of grandma A’s ceiling fans in the great room of her house. They were set up in “winter” mode (drawing air upwards). Getting up on a rickety ladder I was able to reach the switch on each and change them to “summer” mode, where they made a remarkable difference in the temperature. Even my mom had to give me credit for figuring that trick out. Since she had the place built in the late 90′s, they’d been set to draw up.

    I did this mostly for the sake of Michael’s Mommy, who’d been giving me “the look” ever since we came down. This look means “It’s hot here. You said it wouldn’t be hot. I don’t do hot. I’m not going to forget this. You owe me big time.” It’s amazing how many words can be conveyed by just one look. Wives are really good at this. They must go to school for this, although I’ve never seen the course offered. Men don’t get this kind of higher learning.

    The first full day of our visit, we started out going to FairyTale Town, a little amusement park based on nursery rhymes and such. For Sacramento denizens, it’s over in Land Park. I used to go there as a kid, and love to see it whenever I’m in town.

    Later in the day we endured the State Fair, where the temperature was approximately two hundred thirty five degrees in the shade. I grew up in this kind of heat, but I don’t remember it being so mean before. Heat is supposed to be an application of energy – but somehow it works in reverse, draining you completely until after a couple of hours you feel like a wet noodle. All that asphalt doesn’t help much.

    The kids rode on rides, Michael tripped and tore open his elbow, we sat and had snacks in the “cool zone” sponsored by a local water company, and we saw a performance by a troup of acrobats from Peking. And of course we got to touch cows and goats, a diversion that any good state fair should provide. We also scored some pretty cool lanyards for carrying water bottles around your neck, something that would prove very useful when visiting the nearly-as-hot Disneyland.

    So, after dragging the wife and kids around the fair for a few hours and thoroughly depleting them all, we headed back to grandma’s house for dinner and to get packed up for our trip down to southern cal.

    Despite the heat and the normal effects of having a large family group together in close quarters and high temperatures for an extended period of time, I was optimistic that the rest of our vacation would go very smoothly and we’d all have a great time.

    I tend to be incredibly optimistic.

    Tales of the Trip, part 3: Saying Goodbye

    Saturday began warm and gradually gained ground on hot as the day waxed. Michael was only too happy to awaken and begin exploration.

    Outside, in the weeds, approximately two hundred thirty thousand grasshoppers leaped randomly about the hills surrounding grandma K’s home, which is perched upon the knoll of a terminal moraine past the northwest corner of Wallowa Lake.

    Michael did his best to catch the little creatures as they frantically fled his footsteps, despite my requests that he try a less damaging activity such as merely following them. No, he is wired to catch what runs. He must be part cheetah. “You’ll hurt them,” I said. “I don’t want to hurt them,” he replied. “But you are, just by picking them up.” “But then the juice will come out, and they’ll be all better,” he reasoned. I could only shake my head and look elsewhere.

    After a morning full of discovery, which included a ride in Papa B’s tractor and an up-close bovine encounter (including an all-too-tactile inspection of that cow manure I mentioned earlier), lunch time rolled around followed by our trip to the mountains.

    We headed into “town” (and by that I mean a small village by the lake) and up to the tram that takes folks in groups of four up to the top of Mount Howard. It’s billed as the steepest tram in North America.

    This fact was not a welcome one to my wife, or to my mother, or to my eldest daughter. Their plan was to huddle together, clinging on to me and keeping their eyes closed until we reached the top. Michael and I thought it was going to be great. The five of us got in a gondola and in minutes were quickly whisked up the mountain.

    The ride was wonderful. It was preternaturally quiet, almost eerie. We simply glided up the mountainside, only a few feet above the treetops, only jostling a bit when we passed by a support tower. The view was breathtaking, though unfortunately marred by the distortion of years-old Plexiglas.

    My mother was not as much enamored with the view as she was eager for the ride to be over.

    Finally at the top, we regrouped. Grandma K (my wife’s mother) rounded up the troops, having already assigned roles for the older kids to buddy up with the younger kids. She handed them bags of seeds to give to the fat squirrels and chipmunks, which had grown entirely blasé about humans feeding them and were perfectly content to run right up into your hand to get any food you might be offering.

    With the little ones sufficiently corralled, we were free to give great grandma the ceremony she deserved.

    The day couldn’t have been more perfect, sun and breeze and view from mountain top.

    We hike along a path to a suitable location, and then I heard grandma K mention my name.

    “Tom is our resident engineer. He can tell us which way the wind is blowing,” she exclaimed. Feeling both proud and a little nervous, I made my way up to the front and said “Okay, everyone. I’m going to do something very scientific.”

    I reached down, scooped up a handful of dirt, and tossed it into the air. The larger particles dropped immediately, but the dust remained suspended in the air and drifted slowly out over the hillside. Exactly the right direction.

    “The wind is blowing that way,” I said proudly, as though it was my action that caused the wind to blow that way.

    Grandma K began the ceremony by reading a poem:

    Miss me a little–but not too long,
    And not with your head bowed low.
    Remember the love that we once shared,
    Miss me–but let me go.

    Many of us did bow our heads, despite the words. We were all saddened by her passing, though happy for the life she led and how she was a part of ours.

    Grandma K tossed the first ashes, releasing her mother to the wind and to the mountains, as was her wish. She explained that she’d requested some ground mica be included in the ashes to provide some extra sparkle, and the effect was magical, as the dust drifted off and glistened like tiny diamonds in the afternoon sun.

    One by one, relatives from the closest to the most distant and youngest to oldest had their hand in scattering. Some were more successful in getting some distance than others. And when the wind mercurially changed direction, we all got a nice coating of sparkles. My father-in-law (Papa B) grinned and told me I looked like Elton John. I retorted that he was similarly coated in sparkles, but he had bigger glasses than I did.

    Once we’d set the last handful adrift, we hiked on to a higher point to take in the view. Signs there asked that we stay on the paths to avoid damaging the tundra. I never though I’d have to worry about damaging tundra, but there it was, right at our feet. The squirrels were roaming around freely, and ignoring a scattered mess of what appeared to be cat food in preference of the seeds being handed out by the kids.

    We stopped by the café before heading down the tram, in order to get Michael some needed nutrition in an effort to head off a possible meltdown. My mother took the opportunity to get a glass of wine in order to head off a possible nervous rigor, facing another ride on America’s steepest tram.

    Grandma K treated us all to a few hours of riding go-carts. My oldest daughter took this as her first opportunity to drive an actual motor vehicle, something upon which she’s completely fixated. The fact that her younger sisters and cousins were also driving go-carts was notwithstanding. Michael enjoyed the rides as well, just being a passenger. The girls made new friends from step-cousins they’d never met, exchanging emails and cell phone numbers. The grown-ups made new relationships with cousins, aunts and uncles I’d never met and most hadn’t seen for ages. Emails were exchanged all around. It was truly wonderful to see what new connections were made from this otherwise somber occasion.

    After the go-cart rides, we were all treated to a steak dinner at Vali’s, a local restaurant famous for its amazing Hungarian and Austrian food. The owners had escaped the Nazi occupation of Hungary, met in the United States some years later and both realized their dream of opening a restaurant here in 1974. Michael was relatively well-behaved during our dinner, though I did have to fetch his Leapster videogame so he’d have something to do while the rest of us chattered and lingered over our various dessert choices. Eventually he chose to do some random pre-schooler dance steps with his cousin E, which the waitress skillfully avoided with each tray she brought out.

    We were the first group to arrive back at grandma K’s home, late at night. When I stopped the car and we piled out, we noticed something we had not seen before. Stars. Because we’d arrived first to a house in the middle of a mostly-unpopulated country hillside, there were no lights on anywhere. You could not see your hand in front of your face. We’re not used to that kind of advanced darkness in the city.

    But here, where no lights intruded, the stars came out in force. Even the faint, gauzy band of our own Milky Way stretched across the sky.

    “Here! There are more over here!” Michael shouted, utterly amazed. He stood, neck craned completely back, staring up at the speckled night sky. “It looks like Wall-E,” he said at last, implying that in his mind, he was now looking at outer space the way it should appear.

    As we stared at the vast display of sparkles in the sky, I couldn’t help but be reminded of the sparkly way in which we let great grandma go into those hills. May you be with God, great grandma.

    Tales of the Trip, part 2: No Rest for the Weary

    As I’d mentioned in my last tale, we rolled into Joseph, Oregon at the end of the day.

    We were worn out. Aside from the mental assault wrought by Dora and her buddies, the strain of keeping the van moving while keeping everyone inside relatively happy, and the stiffness brought about by remaining in pretty much one position for the entire time had taken its toll.

    Now, I don’t ask for much. I really don’t think I do. I was only hoping to relax when I got there. After all that driving, I was hoping to just zone out for a while.

    But as long as Michael’s on the job, there is no zoning to be had. Constant vigil is his implicit theme.

    And as bed time rolled around, it was clear that he would demand vigilance down to his very last waking moment. I’m no stranger to Michael’s aversion to allowing me to have a peaceful night’s sleep, and thus while brushing my teeth for the night, I was already braced for a struggle. There would be no smooth sailing tonight, but mizzenmast stowed and rigging secured for a Nor’easter.

    The kids had assumed Michael would be bunking with them in the big bonus room. But his mom and I knew that if we tried that, nobody would get any sleep. We’d already made up our minds that the easiest way to weather this storm would be to defuse it from the get-go and just have Michael snuggle with his mom all night.

    Only, Michael didn’t want to snuggle with mommy. He wanted to be with his sisters and cousins. He wanted to be where the action is. Where the fun is. Where all the big kids are staying, obviously not sleeping but whooping it up in an all-night toy, movie, candy and flapping-around fest. Michael had it all figured out.

    And to make it all the more pleasant, his sisters didn’t want him there. They (particularly the older two) are hyper-sensitive to all forms of external stimuli. Movement of any kind, excessive vibrations of air molecules, the errant photon, gamma brain waves within a forty foot radius; these are all unacceptable manifestations of commotion when they’ve made up their mind to sleep.

    This is directly at odds with Michael’s need to flop around before he goes to sleep. It’s just what he does, and they’re all aware of this. Watching TV downstairs at home when Michael’s just been put to bed is usually punctuated with reports from upstairs, where it sounds like Michael is remodeling. They should know he doesn’t just drop off to sleep.

    So when we brought Michael into their room, we were met with a collective groan. At least his Cousin A was amenable. He’s a good guy, and always willing to step up to the plate and do what’s right. We bade them goodnight and hoped all would be well.

    It wasn’t even five minutes when sister B escorted him back into our room.

    “He won’t stay in his bed. He keeps getting up and running around,” she said.

    “Okay, Michael. You just stay here with us. Let’s read a book,” I said.

    “I don’t wanna stay here! I wanna be with the big kids!” he whined.

    He flopped around in our bed while I attempted to read a couple of books, chatting with his mom, asking for water, crawling around and using our legs as a makeshift McDonald’s playland.

    Lights out time came, and this energized him all the more. He rolled over on this side. He rolled over on that side. He climbed on his mom. He climbed on me.

    Eventually, we grew weary of this, and offered him one more chance with the big kids.

    I escorted him back to the room, where the collective groan was accentuated with a collective eye-roll.

    “I wanna sleep with A,” Michael said. We asked cousin A if that was okay, he said yes.

    “Okay, Michael. But you have to stay here. Do you understand?”

    “Yes!”

    “Good night, everyone,” I said, and headed back to our room.

    And all was quiet, for a long time.

    I was just starting to drift off, when I heard a cry: “No! No! No! No! Waaaaaaaah!” It grew louder and louder, approaching our door.

    (Insistent pounding on the door)

    “What?”

    Sister B reports: “He keeps getting out of bed! He ran to mine, then he kept poking me. Then he jumped out of my bed and ran to Ss, and started pulling her hair. He won’t stay in bed.”

    I got up and opened the door.

    “All right, Michael. You’ve used up your last chance. You are staying here,” I said.

    “No! I don’t wanna!”

    “Too bad. You should have been good.”

    “I’ll be good!”

    “It’s too late for that.”

    “I don’t wanna it be too late!”

    “Come on, climb in bed.”

    He did, still sniveling.

    “Good night, Michael. Go to sleep.”

    But sleep, he did not.

    He climbed on his mom. He climbed on me. He wanted to slip in between his mom and me, so he’d have full access to each of us.

    He didn’t want the covers on, so he kicked them off of both of us, effectively chilling us both.

    He rolled around, elbows and knees flailing, providing a kinetic counterpoint to the cold.

    He touched his mom’s face, poked her ribs, pounded on her belly. He elbowed me in the eye socket, grabbed my nose, and inserted his finger in my ear.

    His mom picked him up and rolled him over onto her side, mostly to keep him away from me. He waited until mommy was quiet and still, and then tried to slide off in order to escape from our room and return to his sisters. She grabbed him just in time and held firm.

    He wriggled free from her weakening grasp and climbed over her again in order to torment me some more.

    I tried to remain motionless, in order to provide proper example for him. I had hoped he would get the point of this whole “lying still” thing. Even with my eyes closed, I could feel his gaze burning into the side of my head, could sense a mischievous grin spreading across his face. His arm snaked out and slid over my face ever so slowly, and then his fingers closed around my nose again.

    My hand shot up with ninja-like speed and grabbed his arm. “Michael, no. You go to sleep,” I said, growling.

    “buuuuuuwwwaaaAAAAAAAAAA!” he cried, obviously tired and horribly offended that I would refuse his kindness.

    “Come on, Michael. Snuggle with mommy,” his mom says, returning to her basic axiom that when daddy’s sleep is jeopardized, Michael should be kept out of his reach.

    While I lay there fuming, I was inspired to invent safe and effective alternatives to chloroform. Visions of a brainwave-altering LED strobe and a concentrated brew of chamomile, valerian root and blue vervain circle my mind. There has to be a way of consistently getting a kid to fall asleep that doesn’t involve a rubber mallet.

    Whether he was still flopping around after I finally fell asleep, I do not know.

    But after what felt like a brief, dreamless sleep, I was suddenly awake again, the room brightening to the mounting glow of the dawn. One of the great joys of visiting here is seeing the sunrise. The view of the northeast horizon from this bedroom was unsurpassed, and it would be only a few minutes before the sun would rise over the hills in the distance.

    As I stood there staring out the window, a brief green flash heralded the rising of the sun as it finally peeked up over the hill.

    Though I felt like I’d gotten no sleep at all, I was definitely awake for the day. My wife and son lay there peacefully, asleep at last. They didn’t wake up for another hour or so.

    My wife informed me later that she probably got three hours of sleep.

    Not a good way to start the day: sore, exhausted, and still bone-rattled and delirious from the previous day’s trip.

    But today was a special one, and my wife and I knew we needed to buck up and deal.

    Tales of the Trip, part 1: Exploring with Dora

    My poor mother. She picked the wrong car to travel in.

    My sister-in-law, aunt M, drove her own car out to Joseph, since we didn’t have enough seats to hold everyone in the van. To keep them happy, we had Michael and his cousin E (who turned three this spring) ride with us in the new van. Mostly this is because we have the built-in DVD player, and a front seat passenger (AKA Michael’s Mommy) who could dispense snacks and headphones and bottles of water as needed to keep the kids hydrated and relatively comfortable. My mom rode with us.

    She had envisioned traveling blissfully with her granddaughters flanking her in the back seat, chatting and catching up on their lives and times. They would have pleasant conversation, in comfort and ease, as they watched the scenic Oregon countryside roll by. Yes, that would do nicely.

    Unfortunately, she didn’t get to visit with her granddaughters in the back seat of the van; they rode with aunt M (in the car “without kids in it” as they put it).

    Instead, she got to visit with Dora the Explorer. And Dora didn’t let her get a word in edgewise.

    “Dora, Dora, Dora the explorer! Boots and super-cool exploradora! Grab your backpack! Let’s go! Jump in! Vamanos! You can lead the way-hay!”

    See, cousin E had a few Dora the Explorer DVDs along with her, to keep her happy on the trip. We were a little concerned about how well cousin E would behave on this long trip, away from her mom. As it turned out, she was a perfect little doll the entire time. Michael, not so much. But I digress.

    Her favorite show is Dora the Explorer. This show is expressly intended for little kids, to burrow into their brains and take up residence. It’s designed to grab their gnat-sized attention and clasp it in its vice-like grip. Unfortunately, it has very nasty side-effects for grown-ups.

    For one thing, Dora screams through her dialog. Nothing is at a normal conversational level in this program, it’s all shouting. This is to make sure you can hear, and that you won’t get distracted by things like toys that might be nearby, a family pet that might accidentally wander in between you and the TV, your parents calling you to eat lunch, raging fire consuming the curtains and breakfast table, a stampede of bison, things like that. Must. Keep. Watching.

    And she stares at you with those big, brown, half-moon eyes. She doesn’t blink. And her head is always turned toward the camera, so she can keep her eyes on you. To make sure you’re watching. I believe there are subliminal messages broadcast through her staring eyes. I also believe that if you turn off the TV while her show is on, she would emerge from your television and turn it back on.

    Did I mention she’s loud? Seriously. If Billy Mays and Ethel Merman had a love child, it would be Dora.

    “DO YOU WANT TO BE A STAR-CATCHER? GREAT!”

    Also, the characters have to repeat things ad nauseum. The map tells us that we need to look for certain landmarks to get to our destination. He provides his navigational assistance by continually bludgeoning us directly in the brain pan:

    “We have to get to the giant star! Can you see where we need to go? Steps, diamond, giant star! Say it with me! Steps, diamond, giant star! Steps, diamond, giant star! Steps, diamond, giant star! Steps, diamond, giant star! Steps, diamond, giant star! Steps, diamond, giant star! Steps, diamond, giant star!”

    I hear grandma pipe up from the very back: “All right! All right! I’ll talk, I’ll talk! I’ll say anything! Just make it stop!”

    At one point Dora starts counting stars and naming the color pattern. En Español: Roja, Verde! Roja, Verde! Roja, Verde! Roja, Verde! Roja, Verde! Roja… what’s next?”

    What’s next is me letting go of the steering wheel and swerving off into the Columbia river as I claw my ears off.

    We did get a brief respite when both kids fell asleep for a time… but it wasn’t long enough. An hour before we got to my mother-in-law’s place, cousin E woke up. Shortly after that, Michael woke up.

    “Can we watch Dora?” Michael asks.

    “I want to watch Dola!” Cousin E says.

    “Me too! I want Dora!” Michael chimed in.

    “I like Dola!” cousin E confirmed.

    Grandma is once again heard from, weakly: “Can I have bamboo shoots run under my fingernails? I think I’d prefer that.”

    The entire trip is six and a half hours of driving, if it’s done straight. Factoring in stops for lunch, potty breaks and a leg-stretching at the half-way point, we’re talking more like eight hours.

    And most of that time, we were treated to episode after episode of Dora.

    “Do-do-do-do-do-Dora! Do-do-do-do-do-Dora!”

    And those clever little songs:

    “Backpack, backpack. Backpack, backpack.”

    “I’m the map. I’m the map. I’m the map. I’m the map. I’m the map.”

    When we finally arrived at my mother-in-law’s place and stumbled out of the van, grandma said “There’d better be a stiff drink waiting for me.”

    We were done. For now. There would be no more Dora. For now. We could rest easy and enjoy family time. For now. Si se puede.

    But it was too late. My wife and I were infected with ear worms. For the rest of the weekend, my wife and I still had Dora playing inside our heads. At any given moment, one or both of us would be silently mouthing the words to a Dora song: “I’m the map. I’m the map, I’m the map, I’m the map, I’m the maaaaaaaaap!”

    And I thought The Wiggles were bad.